Istanbul

Istanbul has two international airports on two continents. Istanbul Airport (IST), north-west of the European side, is the main hub and the base of Turkish Airlines. Sabiha Gökçen (SAW) sits on the Asian side and is used heavily by low-cost carriers. Transfer times between the two are long, so avoid separate tickets with tight connections.

From IST, the M11 metro line and Havaist airport buses reach the city centre, alongside taxis and pre-booked transfers. From SAW, the M4 metro and Havabüs coaches connect to the centre. If your hotel is in Sultanahmet or Beyoğlu, factor in traffic: road transfers can take well over an hour at peak times.

Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) are the most comfortable seasons, with mild weather for walking and ferry rides. Summer is hot and busy, and winter is cool, grey and occasionally snowy, though museums and hammams are pleasant then and crowds are smaller.

Getting around is easiest with an Istanbulkart, which works on the metro, trams, buses, funiculars and the public ferries. The T1 tram passes most of the historic sights, and Bosphorus ferries between Eminönü, Karaköy, Kadıköy and Üsküdar are both transport and sightseeing.

Highlights include Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace, the Basilica Cistern and the Grand and Spice bazaars on the historic peninsula; Galata Tower, İstiklal Street and the Bosphorus waterfront in Beyoğlu; and the cafés and markets of Kadıköy on the Asian side. Several major sites are religious buildings, so check prayer times and cover shoulders and knees.

Practical notes: the currency is the Turkish lira (TRY); cards are widely accepted but keep small cash for markets and ferries. Istanbul is hilly, with cobbled streets in the old city, so comfortable shoes matter. Confirm your own visa or e-visa requirements with an official source before booking.